Telegram Contact tutsoft HOW TO DOWNLOAD

Telegram Contact tutsoft HOW TO DOWNLOAD

Telegram Contact tutsoft

HOW TO DOWNLOAD HERE (FAQ): Telegram users read here Unregistered people read here. 157.7K views edited Oct 22, 2020 at 13:47.

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Figure 13 Maximum allowed inductance values ​​for single switch off (EAS) L=f (IL), Tj,start= 150 °C, Vbb=30V, RL= 0 Ω. Slew rate Read more

MaxSea v12641CM93v3 Nov2019 charts Windows 10 VirtualBox MaxSea 2019Marine trackerForum

VirtualBox windows 10 with MaxSea v12.6.4.1 and Nov 2019 CM93v3 charts installed. Year: 2019. Developer: MaxSea. Platform: Windows. System Requirements: reasonable fast host computer(Win/Linux/MacOS) 64bit
@andrey11I’m sorry if the system fails for you! My russian is not that good, but on the desktop of the VM there is an. iso file with the MaxSea installation and manual. Basically you have to re-run the chart installation. Read the instructions in the PDF file and start at point 7The CM93Ed3 charts are in the C:\Good luck! P. S. if you want to update the CM93Ed3 the same procedure applies! roshdi3, No you need virtualbox, or maybe VMware might work too, I haven’t tried because I run a linux machine, and my package manager has the free option virtualbox. I installed the program. everything went Ok and Maxsea started. But no C-Map charts opens. I can see just vector skeleton and this is all. I tried to reinstall C-Map charts but it’s the same. If for some reason the charts do not open, please reinitialize the setup from the iso file readme on the desktop. And then you might have to reopen the C93 charts in the settings. It works for me every time! Yahoooo!!! ))) !!! ))))Done!! ))))It is working now. Thank you very much!!! )))Just only one question. I have a warning when start Maxsea”Your licenses for the following zone will expire in two month”Is it ok? jeroenimo, Good morning jeroenimoIs it a professional version, please? Can I use USB Pilot Plug to get the AIS signals? TIA

Tutorial SMC3 Arduino 3DOF Motor Driver and Windows Utilities

For those interested in another Arduino controller *** DOWNLOAD AT END OF POST *** If you are looking for the modified version for the sabretooth
The SMC3 is a “Simulator Motor Controller for 3 Motors” written for the Arduino UNO R3. At the time of writing this it has not been tested on any other Arduino model. The SMC3 uses a PID motor control loop. The PID algorithm has been optimised for this application and achieves 4096 PID updates per second for all three motors giving smooth precise motor control with well tuned parameters. Some characteristics of the controller: There are currently two MODES of operation that are configured by a single line of code at compile time before uploading to the Arduino. MODE1: Supports the more common H-Bridges used in the forums. This mode has a PWM output pin plus two Motor Direction output pins. Examples include the MonsterMoto shield. MODE2: Designed for H-Bridges that require direct drive of Highside and Lowside switch inputs. In this mode one switch is driven as a direction pin and the other with the PWM output however the PWM duty needs to be inverted whenever the motor changes direction with the direction pin. (An alternate approach would be to switch the PWM between inputs as direction changes) An example H-Bridge that uses this mode is the cheap 43A IBT-2 found on ebay. As the SMC3 is an Arduino motor controller the first thing you need to do is get the software onto your “Arduino UNO R3”. Get the Arduino IDE tools installed on your computer if you don’t already have them. Follow the Arduino Getting Started guide found here: http://arduino. cc/en/Guide/Windows (Note the step for installing the drivers! ) If you want, you could now jump to the Windows SMC3 Configuration software and check communications before proceeding further. (Refer next post) The image below shows wiring for two motors… Thanks to @eaorobbie for getting me started with the image I strongly recommend you follow the steps below if this is the first time you are using SMC3 with your simulator to reduce the risk of damaging anything. Run the Windows SMC3 Utility software and make sure it communicates with the Arduino (There is no need to set baud rates, they are not configurable) Set the Kp, Ki, Kd, PWMmin, PWMmax, PWMrev to 0 for ALL motors (This will make sure the motors don’t move) Set Clip to 255 (you need to do this first) and Limit to 255 (This will give you plenty of margin if something goes wrong while setting up) Now slowly, increase PWMmax… at some point the motor should start to move. When it does check the “Green” feedback line is moving toward the “Blue” target position. If it is moving away turn off motor power immediately (or quickly reduce PWMmax again). In this case you need to either reverse the wires to the motor being tested –OR– reverse the +5V and GND wires to your feedback pot for the motor being tested (do not do both). Restart the test from the beginning. The SMC3 has a second (software driven) serial port that can also be used to setup and monitor the controller. The main use for this port is to provide “live” setup and monitoring while the controller is actually running and connected to simtools via the main USB serial port. All of the SMC3 commands are available through the second serial port however you need to be aware that only one port should be used to send position commands. You would normally connect to this second serial port using a second computer such as a laptop or an old desktop. I would not recommend using the Game machine or the computer running Simtools (especially if you are just starting out with Sim software) to also monitor the SMC3 second serial port. To use the second serial port you will typically require a TTL serial to USB interface board (commonly found on ebay for a couple of $). Once you have the second serial port connected to a computer you can run the Windows SMC3 Utility software to setup and monitor the controller in the same way as the main serial port, but as mentioned above generally it would be left in the monitor mode so that Simtools is the only program sending position commands to the SMC3. Why is a second serial port necessary you may ask… well it isn’t necessary however it allows you to see how well the SMC3 Motor Feedback loop actually tracks the motion data being sent by Simtools allowing fine tuning of the parameters while working with real motion data rather than just a square or triangle wave etc. As with the main USB serial port, the second serial port is hard coded to operate at 115200 baud, No Parity, 8 data bits, 1 stop bit. Fixed bug where Fpwm was loaded after the timers were initialised hence user set values were not used The non linear scaling is designed to try and reduce the overall motion but maintain the “smaller” movements as best possible – ie road noise and stuff, but scale back on the huge side to side motion you get in higher power cars. Removed second software serial as conflicts with PWM freq change (UDP is much more convenient anyway) Added ability to change PWM freq (5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 kHz for motors 1 and 2) (4 and 31 kHz for Motor 3 – Arduino limitations) Edit the SMCUtils. ini file with notepad or a text editor to setup your serial comm port used to connect to Arduino. OK, now that you know your motors aren’t going to race off in the wrong direction you can start tuning the parameters. Again this is done with the Windows SMC3 Utility software – so far we haven’t gone near any sim software! If you have experience tuning PID control loops then you can probably jump in and setup to your liking, however it would be worth scanning the following steps to get familiar with the clipping, limiting, and braking parameters Clip Input Used to create a band at either limit of the target range beyond which any values sent to the SMC3 are clipped. In addition to this clipping, if the motor feedback does move beyond this range (typically through inertia), the SMC3 will attempt to brake the motors hard by driving them in reverse until they are back out of this limit zone. The value can be anything from 0-255 (however can’t be less than the current limit setting). Reverse braking is applied in the band between the Clip Input and the Max Limit settings. Reverse braking can be disabled – refer to PWMrev. Max Limits Used to create a band at either limit of the feedback range beyond which if the motors move (typically through inertia) the SMC3 will automatically shutdown the drivers and keep them disabled until reset. This is essentially a safety mechanism if something goes wrong. The value can be between 0-255 (however can’t be greater than the current clip setting). Deadzone This creates a hysteresis zone for the motor feedback If you need values greater than 1, you probably have too much “slack” in your mechanical setup. Fpid / By default the PID loop performs 4000 calculation updates per second. This divider enables you to reduce the number of PID calculations per second by the divided amount. Sometimes this can help if the motor windings are producing audible noise. The approx number of calcs per second is displayed in the center bottom of the SMC3 Utils window. (This may jump around a bit as it is just an indicator) Kp The proportional term of the PID loop. Essentially the larger the value here the “harder” the SMC3 controller will try to drive the motor to bring it to its target position. It is scaled by the distance away the motor is from its current target position, again the further away the harder it is driven (within the constraints set by other parameters) This is typically the main tuning parameter and the greatest effect – this can even be used alone with Ki and Kd set to 0. The setting will be very dependent on the motors, H-bridges, and mechanical loads however values in the range 300 to 500 would not be uncommon with the SMC3. Allowed values range from 0-1000. Ki The integral term is useful to help get the steady state error closer to zero. Generally speaking for sim designs I have found that if you have large enough PWMmin and Kp values the need for Ki is reduced and it can often be set to 0. Too large a Ki can cause the position to overshoot and oscillate. Kd The derivative term is great for reducing overshoot on fast step changes in position… The negative effect is that it can slow down the movement particularly when the target undergoes a step change. Ks This is a “smoothing” parameter for the Kd term. Essentially the Kd parameter is only computed when the loop counter matches this value. So a Ks of 5 means the Kd term will only be updated once every 5 times the other parameters are calculated. Fpwm The frequency of the selected Motor PWM. Note Motors 1 and 2 are tied together and will always have the same PWM frequency and have more selection options than Motor 3. This is a limitation of the microprocessor used on the Arduino Uno. PWMmin This is the minimum duty cycle that is used to drive the motors to their target position. For example if the motors are already close to target they will not need to be driven as hard as if they are a long way from target (or they may overshoot and oscillate). The reason we don’t just use 0 is that due to friction, loads, and other factors, the motors will need a certain minimum current just to get them moving. This helps us set that minimum. Settings are in the range 0-255 (which are mapped to the range of 0-100% duty cycle) however cannot be greater than PWMmax setting. PWMmax This is the maximum duty cycle that is used to drive the motors to their target position. As the target position gets further away from the actual position the control loop attempts to increase the motor drive (PWM) to get it to the target position. It will increase the PWM until it reaches PWMmax. PWMrev This is the PWM duty cycle that is used to drive the motors in reverse (hard brake) if they enter the limit zone. Higher values here will brake the motor harder but will draw more current and heat the H-Bridge more. It may also cause an abrupt jolt in your sim as it tries to change direction. Setting this to a similar value as PWMmax would make sense. If you want to disable the revers braking then simply set this value to 0 and the position will be driven by the normal PID algorithm. Settings are in the range 0-255 which are mapped to the range of 0-100% duty cycle. Simtools has the great ability to output the motion data over your network via UDP instead of (or as well as) sending data via a serial port. The Windows SMC3 Utility software now has the ability to receive this network UDP motion data from Simtools and pass it onto the Arduino SMC3. So why setup such a complicated arrangement? Well it’s not actually that complicated and it allows you to perform real time monitoring and setup of the controller while Simtools is running without the need for the second serial port hardware mentioned above. If this approach is used it is still recommended that a second computer be used to run the Windows SMC3 Utility software (especially if you are just starting out with Sim software). Thanks to @Pit’s experiments he has worked out how two connect two Monster Moto output drivers together to drive a single motor using SMC3, thus increasing the available power available to drive the motor. His full thread and discussion can be found here: http://www. xsimulator. net/community… cts-as-a-single-motor-driver-more-power. 5482/ The Monster Moto (MM) from Sparkfun or dx. com (Hummer Driver) uses the VNH2SP30-E motor driver, these bridges will be used as a high power full (double) bridge driver normally. If someone is using strong motors like winches (as the mines) you need more powerful h-bridges: The VNH2SP30 can be used as a half-bridge. The famous jrks12v12s works great but are expensive (~100$ one sample). The Monster Motos are cheap (one bridge about 17$ at Aliexpress. com) and easy to use with an Arduino as a controller (17$). The VNH2SP30 has a maximum current rating of 30 A and a continuous current of 14 A. As a half bridge (using two VNH2SP30 for one motor) you “double” the power of your h-bridge. That means, if more “Ampere” is needed, the MM can handle it. “Volt” is being left unchanged. This tutorial is an addition to the SMC3 Arduino 3DOF Motor Driver and Windows Utilities code. Not tested but probably working the Arduino UNO/Duemilanove 2dof firmware (caution notice: different wirings to the Arduino needed!! ). Remark: The wiring meets the specifications of the MM. This is important to prevent any short circuit. SMC3 code can access up to 3 motors using one Arduino. If you want to connect 3 MM please wire described as follows: – To be sure before connecting a motor to the h-bridge use a power meter to check the polarity of A1/B1 and A2/B2 separately if all is wired correctly! All commands to/from the SMC3 are sent as data packets each 5bytes long. They start with a left square bracket ‘[‘ and end with a right square bracket ‘]’. Typically the second byte is the command and the third and forth bytes are the parameters. ——————————————————————————————————————————————- [Axx], [Bxx], [Cxx] Send position updates for Motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the binary position limitted to range 0-1024 None [Dxx], [Exx], [Fxx] Send the Kp parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Kp binary value (restrict to 0 – 1000) None [Gxx], [Hxx], [Ixx] Send the Ki parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Ki binary value (restrict to 0 – 1000) None [Jxx], [Kxx], [Lxx] Send the Kd parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Kd binary value (restrict to 0 – 1000) None [Mxx], [Nxx], [Oxx] Send the Ks parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Ks (d term smoothing parameter between 1 and 20) None [Pxy], [Qxy], [Rxy] Send the PWMmin and PWMmax values x is the PWMmin and y is PWMmax each being in range 0-255 None [Sxy], [Txy], [Uxy] Send the Motor Min/Max Limits (x) and Input Min/Max Limits (y) (Note same value used for Min and Max) None [mo1], [mo2], [mo3] Request continous motor position, feedback, pwm and status data (all packets sent every 15ms) [Axy][Bxy][Cxy][axy][bxy][cxy] [rdA], [rdB], [rdC] Request motor target and feedback for Motor 1, 2, or 3 parameters scaled 0-255. [Axy][Bxy][Cxy] [rda], [rdb], [rdc] Request motor pwm and status data for Motor 1, 2, or 3 parameters scaled 0-255. [Axy][Bxy][Cxy] [rdD], [rdE], [rdF] Request the Kp parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Kp value multiplied by 100 [Dxx][Exx][Fxx] [rdG], [rdH], [rdI] Request the Ki parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Ki value multiplied by 100 [Gxx][Hxx][Ixx] [rdJ], [rdK], [rdL] Request the Kd parameter for motor 1, 2, 3 where xx is the Kd value multiplied by 100 [Jxx][Kxx][Lxx] Note the Arduino SMC3 code does not check values sent are within valid ranges. It is the job of the host application to keep values within you can put a second network card in the SimTools PC (if you still want internet from the first nic), and then use a cross-over cable between the SimTools and the SMC3 PC. Good point… it is always worth highlighting the various options, different approaches may work better for various individuals. (I already have a 1Gbit network switch between computers so didn’t even occur to me there maybe other possibilities). Note wireless could also be used. Probably the slowest overall but if that is all you have it would be worth doing some tests before committing loads on extra hardware. As the final link in the communications chain is serial running at 115200baud it will take 1. 3ms to transfer 3 packets of data for all three motors and Simtools has a 1ms delay minimum between position commands. From experience the speed if this connection is not super critical. Trying to send data packets at a rate faster than this is unnecessary as the PID loop won’t be getting any benefit from the extra data. What is more critical is the lag that is created from the game motion output to the sim movement. Of course minimising unnecessary delays in comms setups is always good practice though. I would use SMC3 in MODE1 which can drive the Pololu board in its “Sign-magnitude (drive-brake)” mode It is always a good idea to first test using a cheap toy motor and a 1. 5V battery (may need 6v lantern or 9v battery for this board to power the logic! ) if you have them handy. (manually turn the feedback pot and the motor should speed up, slow down, and change direction as you adjust the pot around the target position. I note the board in question has no over temp or over current protection so be careful, and keep them cool. Start out using a PWMmax setting below 200 until you get things working well and see how hot everything gets. The Pololu products definately seem to have a good reputation in the sim community. @bsft and @eaorobbie have plenty of experience and good things to say. And yes difficult choices to make… going the off the shelf route often seems more expensive but if you are a bit unsure about setting up the DIY approach you can often burn lots of money having to replace parts if they get damaged. I think all the models you have linked to are good products – it really just comes down to the DIY vs Risk trade offs and which one makes you more comfortable. I have an electronics background and like “playing” so that was half the decision for me and if I destroy something… well its my fault because I should know better. I only have experience in the Pololu JRK, but apart from user stupidity (points to himself), it has been almost bulletproof for 12v simplicity in set up. I also have a background in electronics (a very long time ago) and I’m somewhat familiar with Arduino. The reason I find it difficult to decide between the two solutions is (perhaps) the benefit of Polulu JRK that integrates PID function with Drivers on the same Board while with Arduino, there communication between drivers and Arduino. I would have to disagree the Jrk is much faster at what it does I have had both systems, motion once refined in the Jrk settings can be quite amazing with precise control, you get what you pay for, plus easy of hook up and setup. The Ard stuff has come along way and to me if you are more familiar and as stated have some electronic knowledge then the Ard is the pick for you and you Thanks for the information @RufusDufus. I see that freebasic has an easy way to move a chunk of graphics around. However, if I understand enough, it lacks any controls unless they’re in libraries somewhere I don’t know about. That takes me back to ’80 style programming and after using vb6 with a massive amount of controls I wouldn’t want to go back. It just saves so much time its unreal. As far as coding goes, if you are coding alone and don’t plan on anyone else seeing it, then sloppy is fine by me. That is, as long as your code stays fairly optimized. It’s like when I would rather spend time on my rig and writing code instead of cleaning my house. I don’t mind it a little sloppy but it’s a little embarrassing when others see it that way! PS You must be a perfectionist because your arduino code is very well commented. I hate taking the time to do that myself so I appreciate it. Correct it doesn’t have inbuilt windows control libraries. There is a library called gui_chung (easy to find with google) that I use that makes things alot easier but it’s still no where near VB.

BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide BLTOUCH NeoPixels Make N Print

A visual aid to guide you through the setup and installation of the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard for Creality Ender 3 and Ender 5 3D printers.
A visual aid to guide you through the setup and installation of the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard for Creality Ender 3 and Ender 5 3D printers. This product has been sent with the kind generosity of BIGTREE-TECH for the purpose of testing. Importantly I would like to thank BIGTREE-TECH and you the readers of Make ‘N’ Print by creating this setup guide for the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 3D Printer Mainboard. Please note that this article and the links above may contain affiliate links which help to fund the Make ‘N’ Print website. BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide Category Links. Power Supply JumpersPower ConnectionsThermistorsOnboard TMC2209Sensorless HomingStepper Motor WiringLimit Switches for EndstopsFilament Runout SenorBTT UPS 24VLCD InstallationTFT Touch Screen InstallationFansBLTouch InstallationNeoPixel LED’sHardware InstallationAlthough installing a 3D printer mainboard can be daunting for those new to the process, especially the electrical side. But don’t worry, follow along with this setup guide for the SKR Mini E3 V3, and it will take you through the process step by step. The odd bit of wiringAlthough our intention is to keep the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide as simple and easy to follow as possible. However there may be an odd cable or connector that needs to be rewired. But worry not. As more often than not, it is a simple case of pushing the metal retaining pins down with a tool or pin. Followed by pulling out the cable. Then with the cable removed, lift the pushed down pin backup with a fingernail. Simply reposition the cables as needed and push back in. Whether you need to rewire or not is dependent on each printer and its components. Power Supply JumpersBy default the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 is set to be powered via the Power Supply Unit. But if you wish to power the board via USB for means of testing. Then place a jumper over the SW_USB header pins (Between the RESET button and USB port). BUT don’t forget to remove it after. A point of note, powering the SKR Mini E3 V3 via USB is not a replacement method of powering the board. Instead, it is a means to test the board and firmware settings before installing the mainboard. Power ConnectionsWhen upgrading any mainboard on a 3D printer, the wiring sequence of the cables may differ from the original mainboard. Consequentially, the polarity of the wiring must always be checked and double-checked. But what do I mean by polarity? Moreover, the + (red) cable goes to the positive connections (+) and the – (black) wire goes to the negative or ground connection (-). If handling the electrics worries you. Then fear not, follow along step by step, and you will be fine. When handling any form of electricity, taking care is essential. So before you begin removing and installing a 3D printer mainboard. Ensure the mains to the Power Supply Unit is switched off. DC INFirstly the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 needs power from the Power Supply Unit (PSU) to function. Firstly take a red Positive (V+) cable from the PSU and insert it into the left-hand side of the DCIN connector. Then take a black Negative (V-) wire from the PSU and insert it into the right-hand side of the DCIN connector. Heated BedImportantly the wire orientation/polarity for the heated bed is different from the DCIN connection. Moreover, the Red Positive (+) cable inserts on the right-hand side of the HB connector, while the Black Negative (-) cable inserts into the left-hand side. Some will argue polarity doesn’t matter on heated beds. Yet on many beds, it is critical. Especially those heated beds with LED’s attached on the underside, as these indicate the power is being received and flicker when controlled by PID tuning. Consequentially most heated beds have positive and negative traces and contacts marked on them. Heating ElementFor the most part, heating elements on 3D printers are not polarity sensitive and are insertable either way around. But if the cables have markings on them, check the manufactures documentation for references to polarity. ThermistorsLikewise, thermistors are not polarity sensitive. But for the printer to function correctly, they need inserting into their corresponding connections. Moreover, the heated bed thermistor plugs into the THB connector and the hotend thermistor into TH0. If you purchased replacement thermistors with a long black Dupont style connector. These will work fine on the SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard. Nonetheless, I recommend changing the connector to a two-pin JST-XH, as they will hold better to the mainboard. Alternatively, you could use a hot glue gun to keep the connector in place. Onboard TMC2209Because the mainboard features onboard TMC2209 stepper drivers, the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 is pre-configured to utilise UART mode. Thus no jumpers need enabling for this feature. Because the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 has the stylised heatsink pre-installed, it saves time. As we no longer need to attach heatsinks onto the stepper drivers. Although heatsinks are great at helping components keep cool, active cooling is still required. Such as the fan inside the Creality Ender 3 mainboard enclosure. This fan helps to blow the radiated heat away from the heatsink. Sensorless HomingWhether you are a fan of sensorless homing or not, enabling and disabling the feature on the SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard is a quick process. Specifically, a jumper needs to be placed on the stepper drivers DIAG pins on the mainboard. As a result, the jumper bridges the connection allowing the signal to flow through the mainboard. Although inserting a jumper over the X-DIAG and Y-DIAG pins enables the hardware side of the sensorless homing. But further configuration will be required within the 3D printer’s firmware. If you wish to use the physical limit switch endstops, such as those found on the Creality Ender 3, then the DIAG pins MUST be left with no jumpers connected. Stepper Motor WiringBecause the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 serves as a drop-in replacement for Creality Ender 3 mainboards, the stepper motor wiring should be simply a case of inserting the correct cable into the corresponding connector. For example, the X-Axis stepper motor cable will plug into the XM connector on the SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard. However, for those not using the SKR Mini E3 V3 in a Creality Ender 3, a little rewiring may need doing. But first, let’s explain a little more about how they work. Moreover, Nema 17 stepper motors operate with two coils with wiring in pairs. Namely, the first pair 1A and 1B move the stepper motor in one direction, while 2A and 2B move in the opposing direction. Sadly with so many stepper motors on the market and no set standard on their wiring, writing a guide becomes near impossible. Instead, use the diagram above to match the pairs (1A & 1B, 2A & 2B) of the stepper motors to the mainboard. If you require further assistance, I suggest reading our Stepper motor wiring guide, which details three easy ways of finding the paired/phased connections of a stepper motor. Limit Switches for EndstopsSimilarly to the stepper motor wiring, the limit switches for each axis need inserting into the correct positions. Such as the X-Axis endstop cable inserts into the X-STOP connector on the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard. GND (Black)SIGNAL (WHITE)But for those not using the Creality Wiring, the above example shows the wiring orientation for the endstops. Specifically, the Black Ground wire sits on the left-hand side of the connector. Filament Runout SenorAlthough the Creality Ender 3 line of printers don’t ship with a filament sensor as standard, many like to add one to their 3D printer. However, because of the many varied options available, it’s hard to include them all. Instead, the above image and below table shows the wiring orientation for the E0-STOP (Extruder 0 Filament Runout Detection) on the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 3D printer mainboard. Signal (White)Ground (Black)Voltage (Red)In addition, if using the BTT Smart Filament Sensor, take a look at our in-depth guide to setting up the BTT Smart Filament Sensor. BTT UPS 24VLikewise, the PWR-DET (Power Out Detection) connection on the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 follows the same wiring orientation as the Filament Runout Sensor. Specifically, the lefthand pin is the Signal wire, the middle is Ground, and the right is Voltage. Signal (White)Ground (Not Required)Voltage (Not Required)Furthermore, when there is a mains power cut, a small UPS device such as the BTT UPS 24V will notify the mainboard of a power outage. The printer will then prepare accordingly. Once again, if you are using a BTT UPS 24V Power Out Module. Then take a look at our guide to setting up the BTT UPS 24V. LCD InstallationBecause the cable is only insertable one way into the EXP1 connection, it is a quick step to follow. But the other end of the flat ribbon cable inserts into EXP3 (NOT EXP1) on the Creality CR10 display used by Ender 3 / Pro printers. Creality Ender Display / CR10 DisplayA point of note, if using a DWIN display as used on the Ender 3 V2, then a custom cable is required for the screen to function. TFT Touch Screen InstallationAdditionally, installing a TFT touchscreen to the SKR Mini E3 V3 is another easy step, especially if the TFT is from Bigtree-Tech. However, the wiring orientation must match the SKR Mini E3 V3. Without a doubt, those using a TFT display from Bigtree-Tech have it a little easier when installing the display. Firstly insert the connector with all the wires in a single plug into the TFT screen. Then insert the other end of the cable into SKR Mini E3 V3 with the one loose wire (RESET) inserted to the far left. Importantly, ensure the 5V pins are wired correctly by following the 5V pin on the SKR Mini E3 V3 (far-right) to the 5V pin on the TFT display. To further aid in visualising the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 pinout for the TFT connection, I have used a custom cable in the imagery above to match the table below. For example, the far-left Yellow wire is the Reset, and the far-right Red wire is the 5V connection. RESETRXTXGND+5VA point of note, not all TFT models have the pin layout in the same order, so care needs to be taken. Hence the cable that BTT / BIQU supply has the reset cable loose, allowing the other pins orientation to switch positions by turning the connector 180 degrees. TFT 35 E3The TFT 35 E3 V3 touchscreen from BIGTREE-TECH is a popular choice. Because of this, the examples above and below show the pin layout for the TFT 35 E3 V3 touchscreen. Importantly the Reset is on the left nearest to the SD card slot, and the 5V header pin on the TFT35 E3 V3 is on the far-right. Thus the 5V (far-right) pin on the SKR Mini E3 V3 would connect to the 5V (far-right) on a BTT TFT35 E3 V3 display. Additionally, the Reset wire would connect to the far-left on the SKR Mini E3 V3 and the BTT TFT35 E3 V3. RESETRXTXGND+5VFANSWithout a doubt, having three PWM controllable fan outputs on the SKR Mini E3 V3 is perfect for using thermostatically controlled fans to save on both noise and power. Particularly important is that the Voltage of fans must be the same as the power supply connected to the mainboard. For instance, if using a 12 Volt power supply, you will need 12V fans. Similarly, if using a 24 Volt power supply, you will need 24V fans. Part Cooling FanBy default, the connection for the cooling fan for the filament is FAN0, with the red positive (+) wire to the left and the black negative (-/GND) to the right. Board Controller Cooling FanAdditionally, the FAN1 connection is located idyllically for use with the fan that helps keep the mainboard cool. Like the part cooling fan, the polarity is with the red positive (+) wire to the left and the black negative (-/GND) to the right. Hot End Heatsink FanFinally, the fan connection for the hotend heatsink fan is the FAN2 connection. Once again, the red positive (+) wire to the left and the black negative (-/GND) to the right. BLTouch InstallationBecause there are many clones of the BLTouch, their wiring could be different to a genuine Antclabs BLTouch probe. However, there tend to be two main patterns to the wiring schemes. Firstly there is the authentic Antclabs colour scheme, followed by an alternative colour coding of the wiring used by most clones. Because of this, I have listed these two main variants below. Antclabs BLTouch wiringSIGNALGNDSIGNAL+5VGNDAlternative BlTouch Colour Code WiringSIGNALGNDSIGNAL+5VGNDFurthermore, I have listed both the original and alternative wiring colour codings from top to bottom. Importantly the bottom wire is GND (Brown or Blue) and is closest to the thermistor connections, and the White probe SIGNAL is nearest the USB port. BLTouch Alternative WiringIf you experience issues with the probe not deploying within Marlin. Then there is an alternative method to try, first remove the GND (Black) and Signal (White) wires from the Probe connector. Finally, use a two-pin JST-XH 2. 5 connector and insert it into the Z- connector. Furthermore, the wiring orientation follows the same pattern as previously covered for endstops. Moreover, the black negative (-/GND) wire connects to the left pin and the white SIGNAL wires to the header pin on the right. GND (Black)SIGNAL (WHITE)Although, the alternative method requires some firmware changes. However, it does tend to fix some issues. NeoPixel DCDCRed Jumper placed on left and middle pins enabling DCDC moduleWhen used with the DCDC5V V1. 0 module, the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 can power up to 30 RGB LEDs. Furthermore, the wiring orientation is with the black (-/GND) wire to the left, the green (Signal) in the middle and the red (5V) to the right. Importantly, to enable the DCDC5V V1. 0 module, the Neo-PWR header needs a jumper placed over the left and middle pins. Ground (Black)Signal (Green)Voltage (Red)NeoPixel non-DCDC ModuleHowever, if you are not using the DCDC5V module, the NeoPixel or WS3812 RGB LEDs need powering from a separate 5V power source. Because of this, the red (5V) pin on the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 remains unconnected. As the 5V required comes from the 5V power source. But the green (Signal) and the black (-/GND) still need connecting to the SKR Mini E3 V3. Ground (Black)Signal (Green)NOT USEDA point of note a further black wire (-/GND) from the 5V power source will need attaching to the NeoPixel or WS3812 RGB LEDs. BTT SKR Mini E3 Setup CompleteCongratulations on completing the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide and successfully installing the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard into your 3D printer. Firmware InstallationTo accompany the BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 Setup Guide, the firmware guide has been added to the Make N Print’s Consolidated Marlin Guide.

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Download corresponding firmware for your Twotrees 3D printers, laser engravers & cutters. Click to find right version for your DIY 3D printing
Please make sure to watch the following tutorial video before downloading or upgrading any firmware. Using the wrong firmware might cause permanent damage to your 3D printers. Our files are named and listed as, for example, “BLU-3-Nano v1. 2-4×2208 Firmware”, among which “BLU-3 ” refers to the model number of your 3D printers, “Nano V1. 2” refers to the version of motherboard, and “4*2208 Firmware” refers to the model number of 4 drivers used in the printer. The following tutorial video would show you how to find out the motherboard version and model number of the drivers. In case the motherboard version or driver model number is not listed in our downloadable files, please contact our service team via [email protected] for corresponding firmware. You might also download this file to get more configuration setting details for the Nano firmware.

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